The plunging waterfalls of Norway may be photo ops for tourists, but to Norwegians they also signify cheap and plentiful electric power. In winter when 22 hours of dark are followed by two hours of twilight those lighted ski trails and sparkling cities make all the difference.

Substantial human energy is a Norwegian characteristic too. In summer strings of bike riders head above the Arctic Circle to the North Cape. Hikers take the seven hills of Bergen as a challenge useful in preparing for the mountain race across the entire Seven Sisters range that takes place every two years. In winter everyone seems to be a contender for the Olympics, and the summer longboat treks give way to snowmobile safaris under the Northern Lights.

The popular "Norway in a Nutshell" tourist package combines rail, bus, and boat in an effortless day's journey through the country's spectacular heartland. Yet in the high and historic railway town of Flam where the air is so clear distances seem to vanish, mountain bike rentals appear to have supplanted the railway as the transportation-of-choice.

Or maybe it's the combination that works. Hot showers and clothes washing facilities in the tourist office building show a fine concern for the comfort and well-being of those who travel under their own power. There are also lists of hostels, tourist cabins and inexpensive B&Bs catering to intrepid individuals, groups and families.

The Railway Constructor's Road---the "Rallarvagen"---is a cultural and historical monument, a 100 year old, 80 kilometer hike and bike road that runs between Haugastao, Finse, and Flam. The road is not without hazards: no asphalt; rough and uneven surfaces in places; an occasional washout. Hairpin bends and sheer ravines are either perils of magnitude or challenges depending on your point of view. Bikes can be hired at Gello, Finse, Flam and Voss then returned by train to the point of departure after use. (Rallarvegen: e-mail turistinfo@geilo.no)

Norway has a 13,623-mile-long coastline and 50,000 islands, many of them connected by ferry or accessible by fishing boats willing to take a few passengers. There are also whale-watching expeditions and wildlife tours where participants catch their own codfish for dinner.

For birdwatchers the possibilities are endless. According to the brochure of the Andoy Nature Center, at Bleiksoy Island "70-80,000 pairs of puffins more than 6,000 pairs of kittiwakes and hundreds of cormorants, storm petrels, common guillemots, fulmars and other species raise their young...." Your chance of seeing a white-tailed eagle is "quite good." (Andoy Nature Center; Andoy Reiselev, tel: 761-42.611, fax 761-42.377)

A program in Bergen called "Car Walks" (AutoWandern) provides posted walks lasting from 1-3 hours to "fjords, mountains, coastal regions and islands." Just because they begin and end at parking lots these are not effortless strolls, and "Car Hikes" might be a more apt name.

The easy way to see the corrugated West Coast of Norway is by sailing on one of the many 6-12 day Norwegian Coastal Voyages of the Bergen Line. These passenger-cargo vessels are the lifeline of commerce and travel with as many as 30 stops on their route between Kirkenes and Bergen. They also pause as they pass notable glaciers and detour into the famous Troll Fjord (Trollfjorden). Passengers get comfortable cabins (even suites are available on the newest ships) and well-prepared locally produced food including ample supplies of smoked salmon and caviar. Forget about room service, casino, floorshows or dress-up Captain's Dinners.

Optional bus excursions arranged for in advance or on board make daytrips to places such as the reindeer lands of the Sami people leading to the North Cape; the strawberry fields of Sartland; the Lofoten Islands with their art colonies and fishing industry; and the ancient city of Trondheim. However, you can also walk ashore to see any port, village or local site, making sure you get back before the ship sails. No one checks you on or off so if you miss the boat it's your own fault.

One call well worth making on your own is The Coastal Steamer Museum, Hurtigrutemuseet, opened in July, 1999, just a few minutes' walk from the quay at Stokmarknes, the birthplace of the service. Dioramas, memorabilia and records that go back to the 19th century detail Northern Norway's maritime tradition. An overpass connects the museum with the MV Finnmarken, a preserved steamer circa 1956. The Maritime Institute of theoretical and practical training for seafarers is attached as is a convention center and hotel.

Don't confuse the coastal steamers with the major luxury lines that also cruise here in summer. The dual-purpose steamers come in three classes and price ranges (according to age) and ply their way year around. Prices drop from September to June..

Neatness counts in Norway, but it goes beyond the well-scrubbed schoolchildren and the tidy sod-roofed cottages of the countryside. Norway's Ministry of the Environment quietly goes about implementing the Kyoto Protocol of 1998 on climate change and the reduction of greenhouse gas emissions. Renewable sources supply 70 percent of stationary energy use through hydropower development, but the nation is looking ahead. Green taxes clamp down on pollution and environmentally harmful forms of energy. The government promotes the development of eco-efficient products, gives state grants to wind turbines, and is phasing out seven groups of ozone depleting substances. Radioactivity in the adjoining seas is constantly being monitored. Norway is taking no chances here either.

"Traveling without trace" is the worldwide caution for responsible eco-tourism. In Norway there is an additional admonition: "Enjoy yourself, but don't disturb the reindeer."

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