If eco travel historically has an American Renaissance man it may be Frederick Billings (1823-1890), the ardent conservationist of Woodstock, Vermont. In his spare time he was also a founder of the University of California, namer of Berkeley, namesake of Billings, Montana, supporter of national parks and president of the Northern Pacific Railway.

Today the Montana Daylight, a passenger/excursion train that follows the old Northern Pacific route between Livingston, Montana, and Sandpoint, Idaho also has a mission. Montana Rockies Rail Tours is an employee-owned company dedicated to saving both the experience of the Golden Age of train travel (while it is still within living memory) and its ruiments before they are ground to scrap. Side trips encompass three national parks.

Environmentalist pleas for alternatives to gas-hungry air and ground vehicles have been all but ignored in a government by and for oil interests. Except where moving freight by train is the most cost-effective, the tracks have been pulled up or buried and the railway cars discarded. Many a little red caboose has been turned into a chicken coop.

So how to save the trains? This may be a case of the trickle-down theory working to the advantage of all. In 1976 when James B. Sherwood, President & CEO of Sea Containers Ltd., bought two derelict Orient-Express cars at a Sotheby's auction in Monaco he was financially capable of turning an eccentric hobby into a profitable business. Sherwood went on to spend $16 million buying and restoring 35 sleepers, Pullmans and dining cars. In 1982 the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express again carried passengers from Paris to Venice and since then recreations of the luxury trains have popped up in such diverse places as England, Southeast Asia, Peru and Australia.

Sherwood's customers are affluent (European fares break down to $100 per hour) and his appeal is snobbish ("you can never be overdressed on the Orient Express") but the historic cars were saved.

The Golden Age of passenger rail travel peaked earlier in Europe than in the United States. The first Orient Express began its run in 1883, and the heyday on the continent was 1900-1914.

In North America the Great Old Days lie just over the horizon into yesterday---that is, the 1940s and 1950s---and should not be confused with today's commuter trains (dirty windows) or Disneyesque trips-to-Nowhere.

The days of bellowing smoke and cinders are past too. No more old clickety-clack. Diesel has replaced coal-fired engines, and improved track has reduced both noise and vibration.

On the Montana Rail Tours, the days of the streamliner have been authentically recalled with restored Budd-built cars and domeliner lounge carriages. Aboard the nation's longest multiple-city daylight-only train, passengers dress for comfort not elegance, and children are welcome. The Daylight operates June through September plus some special events (autumn color, Christmas, Mother's Day) off-season.

"Discovery" cars (the least expensive way to go---from $499 in 2003), have reclining seats better than airline business class. Move up a notch to "Big Sky," and you have access to a Vista Dome car for panoramic views as well as lunch in the diner with white tablecloths, flowers, and complementary wine or beer. The top "Montana Gold" has the mahogany and plush once reserved for sitting presidents and foreign potentates. Its 14 "Gold" passengers get a private chef, open bar and staterooms with pulldown beds.

The Way West on the Montana Daylight follows the trail pioneered by Lewis and Clark, and the onboard narrators point out the three forks of the Missouri the explorers tactfully named for President Thomas Jefferson, Vice President James Madison and Secretary of the Treasury Albert Gallatin. They also provide a running account of the history and the hazards of railroad building.

The "Chinese oven" was cut by Chinese railway workers trying to improve the quality of camp cuisine; the "Golden spike" driven in by former President Ulysses S. Grant was quickly replaced with iron. Tunnels caught on fire; bandits blocked the way then proceeded to steal the mail sacks and rob the passengers; Native Americans found the tracks made a nice place for a powwow.

In addition to the train itself, Montana Rail has packages that may include fully escorted bus or self-drive excursions. They offer ever-expanding opportunities to visit Yellowstone, Glacier and Grand Teton National Parks; the Canadian Rockies and historic Wild West sites in Wyoming, Montana and Idaho.

As for Fred Billings, Marsh-Billings National Historical Park in Woodstock, Vermont, is the only site in the National Park system of the United States that is dedicated to an idea: that of the evolving conception of the conservation of natural resources. It is also the only National Park Service property in Vermont.

Montana Rockies Rail Tours is operated by RailQuest America

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