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Mid-Coastal Maine: Tall Ships And Then Some
Mid-Coastal Maine: Tall Ships And Then Some
Of the literally thousands of windjammers that once moved stone and cargo up and down the New England coast only about twenty are left. Steam and rail supplanted wind and sail, and by the end of World War II, the tall ships were hulks rotting in the harbors. Even when the surge in post-war tourism coupled with historic preservation to save the lucky few from watery graves, no one foresaw they would become the highpoint of a trip to mid-coastal Maine. Many of the vintage vessels have been designated National Historic Landmarks, and replicas are being built to satisfy the demand.
From late-May to late-October the romantic schooners set forth on three, four and six day circuits of the islands in the Gulf of Maine plus an occasional run up to the Canadian Maritimes. Costs vary with the season, but figure approximately $125 per person per day, double occupancy. Though it is sometimes possible to find space on the last minute, advance reservations are highly recommended. The restored and modernized ships are comfortable if not luxurious. The crews consist of college students, and captain/owners, with no goal other than a smooth sail, follow no fixed itinerary. Passengers help haul the ropes, raise and lower the sails, make their own beds, scrape the plates and dry the dishes. Sometimes whales are sighted. Every trip includes a full-scale lobster bake on an island beach.
Hub of the schooner world is Rockland, Maine, homeport to the largest concentration of windjammers in the world and center of such events as Schooner and Friendship Sloop Days in July, the Maine Lobster Festival in August and Windjammer Weekend in September.
Mid-coastal Maine-generally defined as Bath to Bar Harbor---is a relatively small section of a state that is nearly as large as all the rest of New England put together. Mainers claim more than 3500 islands and say their wrinkled coastline, unwound, would wrap the United States.
Most of the islands are the province of birds and seals, but 63 have working lighthouses, and 15 are year-round communities. The latter have the problems of small towns everywhere exacerbated by the isolation of water and harsh climate. In winter the boats don't run severely limiting employment opportunities on the mainland as well as health care. The small permanent populations and miniscule tax base are often not enough to provide even a one-room schoolhouse. Summer visitors are being asked to order their home supply of stamps by mail through island post offices to fend off the Washington propensity to shut down those where usage is low.
In summer, however, ferries and private boat charters make regular calls on the major islands. The waters are dotted with craft of all kinds: fishing and pleasure; yachts, dinghies and kayaks. While seasonal homes and resorts testify to the tradition of Maine as a vacation land, most island residents make their living by fishing and lobstering.
During the months of school vacation, ecotours are geared for visiting families. Lobstering becomes an educational experience. There are escorted visits to wildlife habitats; whale, bird and dolphin watching excursions; sailing schools and harbor tours. Kayaks are for rent (note: kayakers have a bad name for leaving rubbish on the islands), and kayaking is a sport well suited to Maine's shale beaches and secluded inlets. Children 12 and up are accommodated on windjammer cruises.
You don't need money or sea-legs to take the Rockland Harbor Trail, a four mile public footpath along the waterfront. Follow the painted blue line from Snow Marine Park past Harbor Park, the fish pier, Coast Guard Pier, Ferry terminal, North End wharves and Marie H. Reed Memorial Park. The last eight-tenths of a mile are across a granite causeway to the Rockland Breakwater Lighthouse.
Lighthouses built in the 1800s still perform their vital warning duties, though automation has endangered their very existence. Untended they have fallen victims to vandalism and neglect. The "Maine Lights Program" is working through the Island Institute to transfer ownership of the lights from the federal government to local communities and non-profit groups ready to take on the responsibility for preserving and maintaining them.
The Island Institute, headquartered in Rockland, is a non-profit organization devoted to conservation, education, marine resource and community service programs. It also acts as a clearinghouse for all issues that impact upon the Gulf of Maine region from the enforcement of fisheries protection rules to the immediate and long term needs of island residents. The Institute sponsors conferences and workshops as well as publishing the free monthly "Working Waterfront/Inter-Island News" and annual "Island Journal." Since founded in 1984, it has been an integral and invaluable contributor to the ecological and sociological balance of the region.
Although explored as early as 1604, the heyday of the Mid-Coast was the 19th century when limestone from Maine quarries was transported to build the cities of the northeast. The mansions of shipbuilders and ship captains have become today's bed & breakfast inns and historic house museums. A 150-year-old custom's house in Rockland now holds lighthouse artifacts. In Union, a regional history heritage collection is displayed in a one-room schoolhouse and a carriage barn holds one of the only two one-horse shays in existence (207/785-3221). The Friendship Museum in Friendship (207/832-4337) has models of Friendship Sloops and boat building implements in an old brick schoolhouse. The Penobscot Marine Museum in Searsport is a recreated village with eight buildings listed on the National Historic Register, 25 galleries and maritime artifacts galore. (www.penobscotmarinemuseum.org)
North End Shipyard Schooners
The Maine Windjammer Association
Island Institute, e-mail: inquiry@islandinstitute.org
Maine Publicity Bureau.
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