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Luxembourg: Small Is Beautiful & Wise

By Betty Lowry, member Society of American Travel Writers
© 1998 Betty Lowry

The crown of Luxembourg City is a fortified rocky outcrop, and even its citation as a UNESCO World Heritage site calls attention to the fact that it is "set in a striking natural environment." Consider the other capital cities of the world---much less those founded as long ago as 963---and you realize how rare this is. Nor is the environment merely a byproduct of location. The parkland that surrounds the castellated crag is as preserved and nurtured as the old quarters inside the walls.

The Grand Duchy of Luxembourg, population 390,000, is an independent sovereign state and constitutional monarchy bounded by France, Germany and Belgium. Though smaller than Rhode Island, it is not a city-state in the medieval sense but a land of diverse terrain and rural countryside. One third of the country is forest, and some villages maintain their freedom from excessive tourism by simply having no place to stay overnight more elaborate than a youth hostel. French, German and Luxembourgeois are the official languages, but English is spoken everywhere, and thanks to United States help in releasing the country from its annexation by Nazi Germany, Americans are enthusiastically welcomed.

In Luxembourg City's historic center you see an authentic microcosm of Europe in the 16th century as it was rebuilt after a terrible internal explosion destroyed the ancient citadel. It was made stronger and more impregnable than before so that by 1600 Luxembourg was rightfully called the "Gibraltar of the North," an appellation of defense not aggression. It has not always been possible for a country so strategically located in the crosshairs of Europe to sustain a pure independence yet Luxembourg managed to outlast its aggressors, and in the waning days of the 20th century it both lives and prospers. According to the World Bank, Luxembourg is quite simply the richest per capita city in Europe.

The economic success is based on the infrastructures of finance---229 banks in the capital city alone qualify it as 7th in the world---including insurance, telecommunication, and such followed by the steel industry and agriculture. Tourism has not been especially courted though there are very good values in hotels especially weekends when the business people have gone home and the abundance of excellent restaurants (Luxembourg has more Michelin-listed restaurants per square mile than France) has competitively kept prices below their counterparts in other European capitals. Caves Bernard-Massard, a thriving winery facing Germany across the Moselle River in Grevenmacher, greets visitors with tastings and tours, and there are Cooperative Wine-Cellars on Wellensteinís Rue des Caves.

The "Luxembourg Card" offering free admissions to 31 attractions including castles and museums as well all national public transportation for less than $10.00 per day is for sale only in Luxembourg and not widely promoted abroad. LUXAIR, Luxembourg's national airline, will discontinue direct flights between Newark and Luxembourg on October 31, 1999.

Preservation includes both ongoing archaeological excavation and sustained environmentalism. Inside the bastion walls of the capital city is the preserved Old Town, a delightful pastiche of 16th century houses, tree-shaded squares, a 17th century cathedral, 1574 ducal palace, restaurants, galleries and boutiques. Pots of cascading geraniums hang from the lamp posts. Outdoor cafes and cozy tea rooms beckon. It is almost totally a pedestrian zone.

Below the castle is a wide natural park surrounding it on three sides. Not only is this a perfect place for strolling or picnicking, it is a natural air conditioner. The "Wenzel Walk" (named for an early and beloved ruler) is laid out to show "1000 years in 100 minutes" and may be taken independently (the "Wenzel Trail") or with a tourism office guide on Saturday afternoons. Other city-generated tours include a 3 km "Geological Trail" in the Petrusse Valley.

It takes literally a few minutes to get out of town and into the peaceful green countryside. There are bicycle routes and fitness trails as well as posted nature trails for the leisurely hiker. Villages with fewer than 1500 inhabitants have recreation centers, swimming pools and riding stables. Some of Luxembourg's archeological sites go back to the Romans who built a palace at the foot of the Sonniebierg in Helmsange about 30 B.C. The "Grunewald" in Walferdange, has a grand ducal residence and is known for its cultivation of roses. In Steinsel, 8 km out of the capital city in the Alzette Valley, you find the castle of Heisdorf, a fitness trail, hobby market, and, in season, strawberry and apple festivals. Also in the Boevange/Attert region along with a Gallo-Roman tumulus from 3 A.D., is a cycling track and a 1.9 km Ecological Trail. Footpaths (Luxembourg's network of 5000 kilometers is densest in the world) crisscross the country leading by prehistoric caves, neo-classical churches, pottery workshops and woodland villages such as Septfontaines (literallly "Seven Fountains" pop. 500) at the entrance to the "Valley of the Seven Castles." Everywhere you go regional walking maps are available. A free booklet issued by the Luxembourg Railways lists 25 of more than 171 circuits, and you can buy a complete guide in any bookstore.

In the extreme northwest of the Duchy in the Ardennes-Eifel region along the border of Belgium is the Upper Sure Nature Reserve and Natural Park. Without disturbing the habitat of these quiet valleys and deep woods, historical routes have been laid out here too. You see not only sweeping vistas, but old farms, ancient mills, monasteries, and small factories restored and again producing cloth and candles. There are museums, medieval churches, cycling tracks and lakes with fishing and water sports. A former slate quarry in Martelange-Rombach was awarded the Henry Ford Prize in 1995 and 1996 for nature and environmental protection.

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