If Charles Darwin (1809-1882) was right, when you visit the Galapagos Islands, you won't see what he saw. How could you? He saw evolution in progress: birds and animals adapting to changes in environment and food supply---in his own words "The Survival of the Fittest." He saw it as it was in 1835. If you go tomorrow you may well see the naturally selected descendents of his observed creatures, and, yes, you will see evolution in progress, but you will see it as it is in 1999/2000. The beat goes on.

Like Darwin, I went to the islands in the month of September and traveled by ship. I sailed, slept and dined in infinitely greater comfort than was available on the Beagle, but never mind. The isolated archipelago in the Pacific Ocean 621 miles due west of the coast of Ecuador is still home to species of animals and birds found nowhere else on the planet. It still leaves visitors awed at seeing an ecosystem in its primordial state. In 1979, UNESCO declared the Galapagos Islands a "Natural Patrimony of Humanity."

Going ashore twice a day with a naturalist/guide in charge of the 10-12 passengers in each motorized panga, we followed strict rules and except on the beaches, were kept to paths and trails. Galapagos National Park (established 1959) covering more than 97% of the island chain, also prohibits smoking, eating, littering, collecting specimens/souvenirs, feeding the animals or making noises that might startle them. "Don't touch the animals. It's okay if they touch you, but don't touch back," said Elizabeth Coral, our Ecuadorian naturalist escort.

The birds and animals responded by accepting us as just another harmless species. The fur seals who nuzzled snorkelers and cavorted around our landing craft were curious not fearful. The pod of dolphins circling the ship was not there hoping for handouts. No food is offered and no garbage expelled. Naturally animals exhibited normal precautions of turf. A few weeks before our visit a bull sea lion weighing more than 500 pounds had refused to let anything that didnít look like a female sea lion come ashore in his territory.

Blue-footed boobies laid their eggs in the middle of paths depending on circles of guano to define the nests. Flightless cormorants seemed unaware they were unable to escape. Sea lion mothers gave birth on white sand beaches and ruddy turnstone birds cleaned up the delivery while we stood nearby. Marine iguanas (Darwin's "imps of darkness") ignored us. Galapagos penguins leaped feet first into the sea as if inviting us to join in the fun. Crabs only scuttled when our shadows took the ominous shapes of waved albatross or lava gulls.

Darwin, the 26-year old unpaid observer aboard the Beagle, was astonished not only by creatures he had never before seen, but by the fact that they differed island to island. From giant tortoises to tiny finches, basic physical changes occurred to those living a few nautical miles apart. He saw adaptations to environment were ongoing and necessarily completed in a few brief generations. He did not address the answers until after he had returned to England where he puzzled over his collection of specimens and drew conclusions that rocked the beliefs of the western world.

At the Charles Darwin Research Station opened on Santa Cruz Island in 1961, the goal is both to sustain the environment and to return the islands to a state where nature can continue its work unimpeded by introduced species. "We are people protecting animals from animals," Roslyn Cameron said, responding to a question concerning the organized goat slaughter about to begin. Cameron, who has been with the Station for a decade, has watched it happen. Goats and pigs brought in by Ecuadorian settlers strip the sparse vegetation necessary for the life of endemic creatures. Dogs, black rats, and feral cats attack infant mammals and birds. Insects introduced via cargo or garden flowers suck the life from mature plants as well as seedlings.

The food supply on most of the islands is skimpy at best, and the supply beneath the surface was greatly reduced by "El Nino." The 1997-1998 weather calamity destroyed algae and so resulted in the deaths of thousands of iguanas. Natural disasters are expected, and nothing is done to mitigate their results.

At the Darwin Station, however, efforts are made to save species facing extinction, though not always with success. For example, "Lonesome George," ancient giant tortoise and last of the Pinta breed steadfastly resists the allure of two females from a similar subspecies. In the Station nursery, however, infant tortoises from Espanola Island are growing to self-defensive size. Espanola is the National Park's success story: totally restored to endemic and near-endemic inhabitants.

Naturalists at the Darwin Station and aboard the ship commented on Peter Benchley's article "Galapagos---Paradise in Peril" in the April 1999 National Geographic. "It created a false impression," Cameron said. "We rank 4th in the world for a successful control program reaching 95% of biodiversity intact, and they print a picture of an iguana exploring a pile of paint cans waiting for pickup as if we left trash lying around as a rule."

While the outskirts of Puerto Ayora---home of half the 20,000 human residents of the Galapagos---resemble any rural tropical backwater, the difference is immediate when you cross the line into the National Park. Trash disappears. Only authorized vehicles are permitted, and you walk in half a mile from the bus drop-off. No more than 60,000 tourists are allowed to visit the archipelago every year and these pay $100 each for the privilege. They come almost entirely in small closely supervised groups to designated visiting sites. I came on the M/V Santa Cruz, the largest (capacity: 90) of the approximately 100 vessels permitted to send passengers ashore. Because of its exemplary care of the environment and enforcement of regulations, it is the only one allowed in Urbina Bay and Punta Moreno on the western coast of Isabela Island.

The Santa Cruz is one of three ships owned by Metropolitan Touring, the country's oldest and largest tour operator. Metropolitan has been at the forefront of environmental concern and action throughout Ecuador for more than 47 years. In 1997 it founded the Fundacion Galapagos-Ecuador to finance specific conservation projects in the islands not otherwise covered (i.e. regularly cleaning the coastline of debris; using ladybird beetles to fight the plague of cottonysuchion scale insect; conservation education in the island schools). Private contributions (largely from passengers) and 10% of company profits fund the organization. Projects are in conjunction with the Charles Darwin Foundation, the Galapagos National Park, the World Fund for Nature, and the local community.

Is this hands-on adventure travel? No. There are scuba diving and certification programs on specific ships (i.e. the motor yacht Delfin II). Time for swimming and snorkeling is included in excursions. You should be physically fit to do the hiking required and agile enough to balance yourself on the occasional narrow ledge and slippery slope. Basic to all are shoes with good grip soles; a hat with a brim; and liberal use of sunscreen SPF25 or higher.

Much has been written recently about the harm done by tourists. In the Galapagos where responsible tourism is imperative, enforcement is largely voluntary. Should it be further restricted? Right now, tourism is keeping conservation alive.

Go to ECOTRAVEL in Africa & Europe
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